A Rapha Guide to Girona

What you didn’t know about Girona

More than 2000 years ago, long before the arrival of the professional cyclists, the Romans had already sensed the value of Girona; near to the Mediterranean coast but protected from the Tramuntana winds by the Gavarres Massif;  situated at the confluence of four rivers, supplying vital water and connectivity to the region; densely forested, mountainous and abundant in flora and fauna, but also featuring flatter, open plains for world-class agriculture and farming. Girona was the jewel in the crown of Catalunya.

Over the centuries since, different empires came, conquered and ruled, building and reinforcing their power with beautiful stone architectural monuments and fortifications around the city. Enclosed by Roman fortresses and medieval walls, a stroll through Girona - particularly the cobbled streets of central medieval “Barri Vell” ( the old town) - is a living lesson in history. From ancient Roman baths to the modernist architecture of Rafael Masó, Girona is a city that is cemented together with a rich, imposing history.

Snaking through tall, stone buildings and arches, the narrow streets of Girona constantly reveal secrets of its past. Many of the city’s greatest treasures are obscure and elusive, needing a careful eye or expert guide - walk too quickly and you miss the details - statues paying homage to Sant Narcís, the patron saint of Girona; stone witches lurking on towers, promising protection to the city’s dwellers; and ancient maps of Paris clandestinely painted on the ceilings of grand stone arches. 

Why Girona? 

In the last ten years, the steady influx of professional cyclists - drawn by the diverse mix of road and off-road terrain, jaw-dropping coastal and mountain landscapes, and undeniably good weather - has transformed Girona into one of Europe’s most popular and well-serviced cycling destinations, complete with a thriving active lifestyle infrastructure and tourist-friendly services. 

Girona is a cyclists’ paradise within a paradise, nestled in the top right-hand corner of Spain. It sits within reach of the spectacular Pyrenees mountain range, the vibrant international city of Barcelona, and the sandy beaches of the Costa Brava, but is far enough away from all three, allowing you the luxury to choose the rhythm and feel of your expedition. 

Whether you wish to test your fitness on the same training roads as the professional cyclists who call the city home, or find isolation on off-road tracks that can be found like capillaries across the landscape, this region offers a topographical variety unmatched in Europe.

Optimal windows: You can ride in Girona 12 months of the year, but the shoulder seasons of Spring and Autumn promise milder temperatures, whether you are on the road or gravel. Locals will tell you that October is their favourite month of the year, and warn you to watch out for unseasonably rainy weeks in Spring. Before you book, decide whether you want to coincide with or avoid the major events in the city, such as the Traka gravel race in early May, the Flower Festival in mid-May, and Sea Otter Europe in September.

The Terrain: Girona has it all. To the north you have the Pyrennes, as well as the iconic climbs of la Mare de Déu del Mont and Rocacorba in the foothills; to the east you have the Catalan coastal range, providing several stunning 5 - 12 km climb options to bring you to the Costa Brava; to the north-east and west of Girona, you can plot out flatter routes in the rolling countryside for those easier days, but still with some beautiful climb options such as the sinuous Sant Hilari de Sacalm. 

Climate: Girona has a subtropical Mediterranean climate, tempered by the confluence of the rivers and the protection of the Gavarres Massif. The sun dictates the real feel temperature, so on a sunny day in winter, you can ride in shorts, but on a cloudy day in Spring, you might want to wear your full winter kit.  Expect a temperate 18°C to 25°C during those ideal shoulder months. Summer is not for the faint of heart - you can expect temperatures between 15 and 40 degrees celcius, although the highest temperatures are only for a few peak weeks of the year. In Winter, you can expect temperatures to range between 0 and 16 degrees celcius.

Endless options

Within 100 km of Girona, there are many more climbs worth visiting, including Sant Hilari and El Far (to the West), Montseny (to the south), and Vallter 2000 and Sant Pere de Rodes (to the north). 

Off Road

It’s hard to think of cycling in Girona today without thinking of the Traka, Europe’s largest gravel event. Established in 2019, the Traka has firmly placed Girona on the map as one of Europe’s defining gravel destinations. But long before the gravelistas arrived, locals were already riding the trails surrounding the city, exploring the endless network of fire roads, forest tracks and mountain passes that define the region. Much like its road riding, Girona offers seemingly endless off-road possibilities, whether you’re riding a gravel bike or a mountain bike.

For riders seeking a more tranquil off-road experience, the Girona region also boasts nearly 160 kilometres of maintained greenways, known locally as the “Via Verdes,” as well as the 350 km circular Pirinexus route, which winds into the Pyrenees, crosses through France, and loops back to Girona.

For those wishing for more adventurous gravel and mountain bike riding, the Gavarres and the countryside surrounding Girona is well-connected by farm roads, fire roads and gravel paths. These routes are many and varied, although it can be a roll of the dice whether the route has been maintained. Many of these roads also go through private property, so we recommend that you consult with a guide or a local to ensure that you plan a safe and enjoyable route. 

For the most intrepid off-road riders, you can find an endless supply of technical, challenging single-track everywhere you turn. Every February, the world’s best MTB riders descend on Girona and Banyoles for the Shimano Super Cup Massi, one of the most prestigious cross-country MTB circuits in the world. From the Gavarres to the Garrotxa, from Santa Coloma to Banyoles, there are endless options for wild, fun, technical single-tracks. Just one final important health warning: If you are used to riding your MTB or gravel bike through more grippy mud, come prepared for slippery dust, sand and rocks. 

Packing for Girona is highly weather dependent and also depends on what time of day you plan to ride. Due to the confluence of the rivers, the area has a high level of humidity, meaning that the cold can bite more than you expect, and the heat can stifle because you can’t sweat as easily to cool down. 

If you can choose to ride in the afternoon sun in Winter, you might have the luxury of riding in short sleeves and a gilet. But if there’s any chance of a downpour, when it rains in Girona, it rains hard, and you’ll want your best rain jacket, waterproof gloves and overshoes. The best option is to check the forecast before you go, and plan to bring a healthy kit bag to cover a range of conditions. 

If you find that you have forgotten something or there is a sudden change in the weather, Velodrom, the city’s premier cycling apparel store, offers a wide range of the latest Rapha collections. 

Velodrom Odeon Girona

The home of the RCC Girona Chapter is nestled in the centre of the old town, tucked into the right-hand side of the stone steps leading up to the 17th-century church of Sant Martí. Velodrom Odeon Girona is a majestic spot. The store is integrated into the old architecture of the Odeon Theatre, preserving the charm of its storied, entertaining past. The store also hosts La Maglia Coffee, so you can relax with a brew before, during or after you browse.