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Part1 - Nabetani Tohge

At the foot of the climb up to Nabetani Pass there is a road sign indicating the road is closed on the other side. A collective groan is ushered by all, but on closer inspection and reading of the fine print, we learn all is well if we hurry. We catch the eye of a roadworks guard-man with his traffic directing light-sabre, keen for a conversation with an unlikely mob of fellows such as us. He asks where we are from and where we are going. A toothy grin comes to his weathered face when we tell him our plan. His eyes widen, then he laughs and shakes his head in disbelief but at the same time he is so welcoming and earnestly wishes us all the best as we begin the slow cadence up the road toward the first pass.

Far behind us, somewhere on the plain, is a large factory, one among the many in the large urban sprawl of Sakai city in Osaka prefecture. This factory is one many readers are indirectly very familiar with. It was in this factory where your index shifting and dual control levers were designed and developed.  This road winding its way up through the dark closed cedar forest was one where they were honed and tested. For many years riders on the Shimano racing team have come this way on their training rides. Nabetani Tohge to Osaka pros is as symbolic as Col de la Madone was to Lance.

We now begin to make our own rhythm as we click into the right gear and bring the pedals round and round. I watch young Yufta ‘s high cadence whom, despite that harsh winter, isn’t showing any signs of strain as he floats up the climb. Further back down amongst the tree trunks Daisuke’s pink jacket is becoming more and more minute.

At the top we will say goodbye to Osaka prefecture as we enter into Wakayama and the south side of the mountain opens up to a wide valley and both sides dotted with Mikan Orchards. They are a mandarin type citrus. They are in season over the winter months. This area is nationally renowned for its sweet and delicious mikan. Over the New Year holiday when many folk return to their homes, much like at Thanksgiving, people will be sitting under the low table in their living room, a heat lamp beneath keeps the legs warm, a large quilt covering the sides. On the tabletop is always a large basket of mikan, ready for the family to enjoy while playing games or watching TV.

At this time of year with no fruit left on the trees as we quickly make our windy way down from the pass, on each and every corner there is a convex mirror. A wonderful aid and I always take a quick glance to check for oncoming traffic and the direction of the road.  We come to another road works guard man and he waves his light sabre signalling us with horizontal waves to slow down, then as we approach closer, waves us through with sweeping swooshes to the side. We have made it in time and can continue on our planned route down toward the valley floor. There are many tight corners and few long stretches and that keeps our top speed low, but makes for great cornering practice.  The corner mirrors are just the sweetest things, if it is not pelted with BB's.

Down into the village of Koyasanguchi we go, we pedal by shops and houses unchanged from the day they were built forty or so years ago. Left behind by city job searching children, residents here are the elder ones and seems like the clock's stopped for decades. We stop to wait by a toy store, the boys reminisce about the little vending machine you put a coin or two into, twist a knob and out drop a bubble with a toy inside. The machines here are the same, the coins and toys are different now. I wonder where are the children who would come here to browse and play.

PART2 - Koya san