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Origins of a Classic

Von Joe Hall • 8th February 2013 02:16pm • Geposted in Products

As we introduce two new colours of the Classic Jersey for the Spring Summer season, we wanted to find out a little more about the origins of the product that started it all. Who better to ask than Rapha founder (and one of the original testers of the first Classic Jersey prototypes), Simon Mottram.

When did you first start developing the jersey?
We first started to develop the jersey in early 2004. Its working title was the ‘Charly’ Jersey, after the great Luxembourg rider, Charly Gaul. We decided that was probably a bit obscure, so it became the Sportwool™ Jersey. We started out working with a factory in Derbyshire, here in the UK, but they let us down at the last minute so we had to source the jersey from Europe. It meant we didn’t have the final versions for the jersey’s official launch (they followed two months later) but quite soon the press picked up on how different the jersey was from anything they’d seen before.

Charly Gaul

What was the brief for the first Rapha jersey?
We wanted it to do so much more than all the rubbish that was on offer at the time. It had to be the equivalent of a beautiful, modern race bike; functional, refined, durable and classic. From hours on the road, rethinking all aspects of the way a jersey had to work, we came up with some features that were pioneering at the time and which have now been picked up by many other brands. The zip and chin guard for comfort, for example, or an O-ring puller on the rear pocket for ease of use. The angled pockets made it more ergonomic in terms of getting hands in and cargo out, while the ‘bite grip’ protects the fabric when grabbing the zip. Every feature was designed to improve your ride. That included a water-resistant valuables pocket and loops on the inside to keep headphone cables tidy. We tried to be as logical as possible, right down to the eyelet in the side pocket that lets you connect the cable to a phone or MP3 player. It’s the innovative details that set the jersey apart, not just from other cycling jerseys but from many other sports garments.

Another pioneering feature was the fabric.
Yes, the main thing, apart from the colour, was the fabric. Sportwool™ was unknown to many people in the cycling industry but having researched countless fabrics, we eventually found this combination of polyester and merino. It was a revelation, a real Eureka moment. And as we considered it essential for any rider, the jersey has always come with arm warmers as standard, these were originally made from Sportwool™ too.

The colour was certainly a statement. Why black?
Mainly it was a response to the ‘screaming neon’, over-branded, garish jerseys of the time. We wanted something understated, pared back and cool. Some of our influences were jerseys from the ‘Golden Era’, the simple aesthetic and elegant shapes of jerseys worn by road riding style icons, such as Jacques Anquetil and Tom Simpson. At the time, we looked to London bike couriers to test our prototypes as they were riding as much as pro racers, albeit a little differently. And for anyone riding in London at that time, they were kind of inspiring figures. The messengers I admired wore mainly black for practical reasons. One in particular, Jamie, known as ‘Pretty Boy’, wore all black and looked very striking. He came on our first photoshoot, in Italy. Lastly, we wanted the first five products to correspond with each other, so it seemed easier if they were all black.

And now we have the latest version of the jersey in two new colours.
We did offer the jersey in white for a season or two but black has always been the most popular. Now, nearly ten years on, we’ve introduced some new colours which, we think, are classic enough to merit the title of the original jersey. They have become quite classic Rapha colours in other products and both colours are as versatile as the original. They look good with black bibs, various bike paint schemes and different skin tones. And, as the cycling writer Paul Fournel puts it, “to look good is to already go fast”.

View the Classic Jersey »

Kommentare

Geraint Evans

8th February 2013 04:00pm

'New colours' got me all excited… Wow, dark red and dark blue? :0/
You make such great stuff, but why is so much of it in dark colours? Not everyone rides in groups on idyllic deserted roads like in your marketing pics and film, and not all of us are borderline suicidal bike couriers!
How about some classic / winter jerseys in pink, white, chartreuse, orange? They could still look minimalist and classic, while appealing to those of us who have to mix with traffic and feel a lot more comfortable being visible to other road users.
Go on, push the boat out a bit, pretty please…? :0)

Peter Allen

8th February 2013 06:36pm

What's happened to the matching caps?

Tim Bishop

8th February 2013 08:00pm

I will always be a fan of the black jersey with pink and white finishing touches. Pleae don't produce anything as garish as the Rock Racing kit! Mario can keep his skin tones.

brian campbell

8th February 2013 08:36pm

please, please offer these colors in the Pro Team line :)

Kim Lawrance

9th February 2013 07:58am

I will definitely be looking to purchase the new blue classic jersey together with the orange classic wind jacket, but I do agree with the first poster that an orange jersey would be fantastic and just to mix it up a bit you could go with a black arm band as a contrast (although white would work just as well).

Noel Boyd

9th February 2013 01:08pm

I am happy with my Black pro Jersey, but I am rather blacked out. I would greatly welcome some genuine bright colours, that have not been muddied down. Bright HOT pink, and explosive, Team Sky blue, yelping yellow, would be great.

We have survived the transfer of much of the production to China, so we can tolerate a few very bright yellows amongst the burnt hues of autumn.

I would also like to see some experimental ideas, like tartan, polka dots, paisley, Ralph Lauren stripes, metallic colours or perhaps hard edged urban. I am sure John Galliano could make some suggestions.

Rapha is a splendid brand, and I think it could afford to embrace quirkiness, and make the consumer sit up and blink. What about the house of Alexander McQueen?


Noel Boyd

Surrey

Len Buchanan

9th February 2013 05:34pm

No, no, no Geraint and Noel - you are missing the point - stick with what you are doing Rapha - nice and understated.
Len

Geraint Evans

9th February 2013 06:28pm

Len, you're not marking my homework.

Rapha are already doing bright colours in other lines, and this seems to be expanding, look at the latest wind jacket colours for instance.

I'd just like to see this continue into their jerseys, because then I might buy them, whereas I won't at the moment.

I didn't suggest they stop doing the dark colours. Why would they, when there's clearly a demand for it. I'm just suggesting that a bit more variety would be nice, and perhaps win Rapha a few more customers.

Luke Theissling

9th February 2013 07:03pm

What about some new country jerseys?

Steven Moyes

9th February 2013 09:15pm

A Chinese country jersey could be a goer…

Dwayne Cox

11th February 2013 02:00am

Had been sceptical in the past of whether the product ( Classic kit ) would firstly live up to the sales pitch and secondly justify my price point. Happily and now more worrying for my budget is that it achieves both with flying "black" colours …. I love the black with pink and white band …. my only issue is the amount of washes its going to get as it needs to be ridden every ride and has put my other name brand kits to shame … anyone interested in purchasing some italian branded kit so I can get more Rapha ….. no …… thought not .. :-)

Noel Boyd

11th February 2013 10:57am

Noel Boyd

I too are not rejecting the dark colours, but I would like some variation in the Jersey. We cannot all appear to be geeks, so how about a little rock n roll with a jersey covered in skulls. This type of product could be limited edition, and would not damage the Rapha Brand. I have 4 jackets, but I would love a skull one!

Chris Tree

11th February 2013 05:03pm

Still have my original sportwool jersey.

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